John Lobb is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the craft techniques developed in the 1800s.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines timeless classics with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a thicker sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in world-class shoemaking.
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