The John Lobb factory is a highly respected manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The range combines timeless classics with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah trainers, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb continues to be a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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