The John Lobb factory is a highly respected manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory remains committed to the methods developed in the Victorian era.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With feather knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is limited, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez model, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in different shades and textures.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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